PARIS: ISSEY MIYAKE, THE BALANCE BETWEEN EMPTINESS AND MATTER

Within the walls of the Carrousel du Louvre, Issey Miyake presented a fall-winter collection of rare poetry, questioning the place of creative expression in relation to raw materials. Under the artistic direction of Satoshi Kondo, the "Create, Allow" collection displayed an aesthetic of restraint, proving that the true power of clothing lies as much in its form as in the space it leaves vacant.

A revisited aesthetic of "Ma"

The guiding principle behind the collection, a reflection on the space between fabric and body, dictated the look of each silhouette. Satoshi Kondo embraces the philosophy established by the founder in 1970, infusing it with a more meditative, almost intimate dimension. Far from visual noise, the pieces seem designed to generate silence, offering respite rather than saturation.

Sobriety and textile architecture

The show opened with controlled volumes in neutral shades. Controlled oversize, elongated shoulders, and shirts with marked cuffs: the staging evoked a modern ceremony. Supported by a discreet soundscape, this presentation invited the audience to listen attentively to the movement of the fabrics, favoring slowness and contemplation.

When ancestral traditions meet innovation

The collection reaches its peak when the artisan's hand interacts with technology. Yellow pleats, shaped by hand before being mechanically fixed, brought an organic and vibrant energy. But the highlight remains the sculptural pieces—red bustiers and peplums—made from lacquered washi.

These rigid forms, known as Urushi Body, are the result of a process of rare complexity: sheets of washi paper are torn by hand, molded using 3D printing technology by Echizen artisans, then lacquered according to Kyoto tradition. A vibrant tribute to the discipline of the obi, evoking the strength of contemporary feminine armor.

The poetry of the unfinished

One of the strengths of this season lies in the celebration of imperfection and the in-between. Many silhouettes gave the illusion of being caught midway through their creation, leaving it up to the body to complete the work. This approach, which runs counter to the current obsession with clinical finishes, reintroduces a human and tangible dimension to luxury clothing.

Quiet confidence

Kondo orchestrates a subtle tension between precise control and artistic abandon. The limited palette and measured volumes draw the eye to the very construction of the garment, transforming each touch of texture into a dramatic event. By merging the concept of "ma" with exceptional local craftsmanship, the house reaffirms its identity with discreet confidence: that of knowing how to remove the superfluous to reveal only the essential.