Under the artistic direction of Matteo Tamburini, Tod's unveils a collection that celebrates the excellence of Italian craftsmanship, blending tradition and modernity with a particular focus on sustainability and personalization. For his third season at the helm of design, the designer continues his exploration of the brand's roots with the Fall/Winter 2026 collection. Named "Italian Signature," this line extends the "Artisanal Intelligence" project by establishing manual craftsmanship and the nobility of materials as central pillars of elegance.
Leather as a universal language
This season, leather is the absolute theme. Pashmy, a calfskin treated for exceptional softness and deep shades, features prominently on many pants and skirts. Other textures, ranging from nappa to patinated calfskin, are used to create coats, quilted bomber jackets, and trench coats reinvented with an almost couture-like structure. According to Vogue, Matteo Tamburini draws on the great tradition of Italian design, summoning aesthetic references from Vico Magistretti to Gio Ponti to orchestrate a subtle balance between generous volumes and tailored cuts.
Architectural silhouettes and organic palette
The wardrobe skillfully plays on contrasts: loose, enveloping pieces interact with defined waists and cropped sleeves. Scarf dresses, crafted in graphic patchwork, favor a palette of natural tones—ginger, chocolate, burnt caramel—while trench coats and peacoats gain sophistication thanks to finishes borrowed from haute couture. This approach has been highlighted by the international press, which has also noted the brand's efforts towards a more circular fashion industry, as evidenced by this dress, a true manifesto, made from strips of recycled leather.
Leather goods: the art of personalized detail
The brand's flagship segment, leather goods remain a laboratory for innovation. The famous Di Bag has been reinvented as a bowling bag, the Wave Bag has been enhanced with saddle-style topstitching, and the T Timeless is available in nappa leather or silky-soft pony hair. The emphasis is on ultra-personalization, a strong trend noted by observers: thin belts adorned with precious metal letters revisit the spirit of ancient monograms, transforming the accessory into a tailor-made piece. The metallic finishes subtly echo the codes of the Gommino, right down to the buckles.
The evolution of icons
Tod's boldly evolves its classics. The iconic Gommino moccasin features a rounded toe and is available in smooth leather or animal print. Ankle boots embellished with equestrian-inspired straps add a bold touch, while an ultra-flexible suede version modernizes the house sneaker. A live demonstration of the Gommino's handcrafted production process reminds us that behind every stylistic evolution lies masterful craftsmanship.
The living workshop: a scenography of the hand
To present this collection, the scenography chose to break down the boundary between the work and the artisan. The fashion show took place in the heart of a space transformed into a living workshop, where experts worked before the eyes of the public: coral sculptors Vincenzo and Manuel Aucella, embroiderer Maria Teresa Bergamaschi, goldsmith Lorenzo Parisi Asaro, and the Camurati family with their art fans. These sets, designed by Pictalab, reflect a clear strategy: to make each stage of creation visible, from raw material to finished object.
An aesthetic of emotion and responsibility
This approach is part of a fundamental shift towards creating an aesthetic that is both delicate and emotionally rich, while incorporating the imperatives of sustainability. There is now a fluid continuity between the men's and women's collections, united by this treatment of leather, crafted to be as light as it is supple. By reconciling heritage and modernity, and emphasizing traceability and human craftsmanship, Tod's is building a strong Italian identity, where centuries-old techniques and contemporary design interact to renew luxury.