In Shanghai's North Bund bay, Hermès unveiled the second part of its fall 2025 collection last June, subtly blending heritage and contemporary style. In a landscape where almost all the major brands are fighting to win over the Chinese public, Hermès' arrival continues to surprise—and not just a little—because it retains its unique authenticity, thanks in particular to Nadège Vanhée's artistic interpretation.
The artistic director has skillfully blurred the boundaries between past and present, setting her story in the life of a self-assured woman who explores different worlds.
The show took place on an orange-colored stage along the Huangpu River, creating a vibrant setting where nature, urban modernity, and the light of the setting sun blended together. The view of the Lujiazui skyline and the famous Oriental Pearl Tower, bathed in a glowing red halo, gave the show an almost cinematic atmosphere. And, to add a touch of poetry to the whole, a detail of the service—glasses mixing champagne, a few grains of rice wine, and floating wildflowers—underlined the special attention paid to poetry in every moment.
A modular and decidedly practical collection
"Au Galop!" is clearly inspired by Hermès' equestrian roots, with the braided motif appearing everywhere: in the models' hair, on the finely braided edges of Kelly bags. It is a nod to the brand's craftsmanship and equestrian history. But the real novelty is the modularity of the pieces—as if the fashion had been designed to last and, above all, to adapt to everyday life. Nadège Vanhée emphasized the possibility of transforming garments so that they accompany women throughout their day, season after season, and even throughout their lives. For example, there is a leather dress that can be zipped up and transformed into a pencil skirt or vest, or a coat whose Dressage Tressage-printed lining can be detached and worn on its own.
It's a very practical approach, let's say, especially in a global context where the luxury market is slowing down. It shows a long-term strategy: favoring thoughtful investment, with a refined style—chic, but never vulgar—that remains faithful to Hermès' signature understated elegance. At the same time, there is a slight touch of Chinese streetwear, something refined, with noble materials such as cashmere and leather, which give it an even more sophisticated feel.
Understated tones, precise cuts, a tribute to balance
In terms of colors, this Fall/Winter 2025 collection plays with deep blacks and touches of lime green, beige, and light brown. It really contrasts with the whole, but in a very aesthetic way, emphasizing the purity of the lines. The goatskin coats, gabardine silk jackets, and meticulously cut blazers all exude a sense of duality between rigidity and flexibility. Yet another testament to Hermès' expertise.
And this duality is somewhat reminiscent of a musical composition, with each note chosen to achieve a subtle balance between raw energy and refined softness. In fact, it is a small tribute to the equestrian heritage of the house AND to the modernity of a strong, independent woman who stands her ground.
A stronger presence in China, between fashion shows and craftsmanship
Hermès is not limiting itself to a simple fashion show on Chinese soil. The fashion house is keen to strengthen its presence with major cultural events—for example, launching a craft exhibition in Shenzhen at the same time as the fashion show in Shanghai. This kind of initiative really encourages dialogue with a key market—balancing tradition, craftsmanship, and modernity—in a territory that oscillates between exoticism and familiarity.
And when it comes to accessories, we weren't doing too badly either. The classic mini Kelly bag, worn as a shoulder bag or backpack, is joined by new additions such as leather headphones from Atelier Horizons. A new take on practical, discreet, yet highly functional luxury.
Ultimately, Hermès, through this approach, consolidates its position as a witness to the times—a brand capable of transforming fashion into a space where tradition and innovation engage in dialogue, carefully interwoven, much like the often delicate patterns that adorn each piece.