Véronique Nichanian presented her latest collection for Hermès, marking the end of an era of discreet mastery, as the house prepares to welcome Wales Bonner, the first Black woman to take the helm in Europe.

A measured farewell to an era of discreet mastery

Véronique Nichanian presented her latest men's collection for Hermès on January 24, 2026, during a fashion show held at the Palais Brongniart. According to Le Monde and the Associated Press, this event marks the end of an artistic direction that lasted between 37 and 38 years, which is quite rare in today's fashion world. The presentation brought together quite a few personalities from the world of fashion as well as entertainment, including Paul Smith, Usher, and Travis Scott, according to the AP and Business Today.

The aesthetics of a signature

The collection reaffirmed a very specific approach to clothing: focused on precision, practicality, and a certain sobriety. The silhouettes mixed silk turtlenecks, leather pants, and leather coats with a few archival pieces, offering a nod to the history of the house, according to Le Monde. Hypebeast and Business Today highlighted several standout pieces, such as a khaki crocodile suit, brown leather jumpsuits from the 1990s, and structured navy leather suits from 2003. As for the touches of orange and yellow, they punctuated the palette without overwhelming it, creating a subtle but effective effect.

Craftsmanship, longevity, and perspective

Bringing back older pieces is also a way for Nichanian to highlight his belief in sustainability in fashion. According to Le Monde, the selection included several different leathers—lamb, calf, deer, crocodile—and particularly meticulous finishes. Some experts describe these choices as embodying discreet luxury, based more on technical excellence than ostentatious display. This approach, they say, makes the collection a kind of lesson in the longevity of forms and materials.

A historic passing of the torch

To ensure a smooth transition, Hermès has chosen Grace Wales Bonner, a decision announced in October 2025 and reported by media outlets such as Vogue and Le Monde. The 35-year-old British designer, a graduate of Central Saint Martins, will take the helm of the fashion house, becoming the first Black woman to head a major fashion house in Europe. Her first collection for Hermès is expected in January 2027. This change is not only part of a legacy, but also a desire for cultural reinterpretation, as several analyses have pointed out.

Contrasts and expectations

Observers have praised Nichanian's talent, while acknowledging that Wales Bonner faces a daunting challenge. According to Le Monde and Vogue, she possesses an intellectual sensibility and diasporic references that could broaden Hermès' stylistic vocabulary while preserving its artisanal expertise. The big question that remains unanswered is how to successfully combine the brand's intangible heritage with a more contemporary, more open-minded vision.

An end and a beginning

Nichanian's latest collection clearly served as a kind of professional testament, illustrating above all the consistency of a designer who has defined Hermès' masculine style for several decades. AP and Hypebeast saw this show as a true masterclass in informal chic, while Business Today emphasized the precision in the details and the diversity of the casting. As it enters a new phase, Hermès seems keen to continue promoting its craftsmanship while exploring new avenues. The real challenge will come in January 2027, when Wales Bonner unveils her first collection under the brand name.

Source: Noah Wire Services