Founded in 2010 by Olivier Bernhard, David Allemann, and Caspar Coppetti, On Running has grown in fifteen years from a little-known Swiss start-up to a leading brand in running and sports lifestyle. With its distinctive design, patented CloudTec technology, and high-profile ambassador Roger Federer, On Running has established itself as a premium alternative to giants Nike and Adidas.
But behind this meteoric rise lie some gray areas: offshore production, high margins, questions about environmental impact... An autopsy of a brand that, between innovation and controversy, seems to have found the recipe for success.
A rapid takeoff thanks to disruptive innovation
It all began in Switzerland, where Olivier Bernhard, a former three-time duathlon world champion, dreamed of a shoe that could offer both soft cushioning and explosive energy return. With the help of an engineer, he developed a unique system of soles equipped with "clouds": air cushions that contract on impact before releasing energy when the foot pushes off.
This technology, patented under the name CloudTec, quickly won over runners looking for a compromise between cushioning and dynamism. The sleek, futuristic design of the models, with their instantly recognizable perforated soles, cemented On Running's position as a brand apart.
In 2014, On Running began to make a name for itself in the United States, thanks to a successful launch and rave reviews from athletes impressed by the effectiveness of the CloudTec system.
Roger Federer, the fame accelerator
The turning point came in 2019, when Roger Federer joined On Running as an investor and ambassador. More than just a collaboration, the former world number one became an active shareholder, contributing directly to the development of new models, including a more lifestyle-oriented line aimed at an audience beyond traditional runners.
The first creation resulting from this collaboration, "The Roger, " launched in 2020, incorporates the brand's technical DNA while adapting it to a more understated, urban sneaker designed for everyday use. It was an instant success and reinforced the brand's premium image.
With Federer on board, On Running is gaining credibility, expanding its audience, and opening up new markets, particularly in Asia and Europe, where the Swiss tennis player enjoys an impeccable image.
Global success driven by increasingly innovative models
Today, On Running is present in more than 55 countries and boasts impressive market performance. In the United States, it has won over runners and is following in the footsteps of Hoka, another brand that has capitalized on a distinctive technical innovation.
The latest models, such as the Cloud X4, designed for versatile training, and the Cloudnova 2, suited to an active lifestyle, confirm On Running's desire to broaden its spectrum while retaining its strong running DNA.
Added to this is a strong digital presence and a meticulously planned marketing strategy, combining well-chosen collaborations (Zendaya, Olympic athletes, etc.) and effective storytelling around Swiss innovation.
Very comfortable margins... and opaque production
While On Running has successfully built a premium image for itself, the reality of the manufacturing costs of its shoes is a matter of debate.
According to recent investigations, notably by Swiss media outlet RTS, certain pairs such as "The Roger Advantage" are manufactured in Vietnam at a cost of around 17.86 Swiss francs ($20.50)... but sold for nearly €200 in stores. This discrepancy has caused some consternation, particularly in Switzerland, where the brand prides itself on Swiss craftsmanship... even though all production has been outsourced.
At the same time, several criticisms have emerged regarding the brand's environmental impact. Although On Running highlights initiatives such as the use of recycled materials and its "Cyclon" recycling program, there is no clear data available to assess the actual carbon footprint of its products or the working conditions in its partner factories.
Faced with mounting criticism, the brand is seeking to reassure consumers and has promisedto increase transparency regardingits production chains in the coming years.
Towards an even more assertive move upmarket?
Despite these controversies, On Running is not slowing down. In November 2024, the company raised its annual sales forecast after a record fourth quarter, driven by continued strong demand for its new models.
So, what does the future hold for the brand? Several possibilities seem to be emerging:
- Further development in the lifestyle sector: after "The Roger," the brand could continue to explore the premium sneaker niche, competing directly with brands such as Veja and Common Projects.
- Increased geographic expansion: On Running is becoming increasingly prominent in Europe and Asia, and could accelerate its physical presence by opening new flagship stores such as the one on the Champs-Élysées or in Saint-Germain-des-Prés in Paris.
- An even more upscale positioning: with rising prices and a focus on innovative materials, On Running could seek to align itself with the strategies of Lululemon or Arc'teryx, focusing on exclusivity and performance.
With its recognizable aesthetic, technological innovation, and meticulous storytelling, On Running has established itself as one of the most dynamic brands on the market. Backed by Federer, it has capitalized on his aura to reach a wider audience, far beyond the world of running. But the company will have to answer several questions to establish its image in the long term: How far can it push its high margins without provoking public rejection? Will its Asian production remain compatible with the image of Swiss precision that it sells? Will its ecological commitment translate into concrete actions, beyond mere marketing rhetoric?
For now, success is on the cards. It remains to be seen whether On Running will continue to lead the race... or whether these controversies will ultimately put a spanner in the works.