The Chopard Zagato Lab One Concept combines automotive design and engineering to push the boundaries of lightness in watchmaking, with innovative materials and bold architecture.
Chopard, in collaboration with Italian coachbuilder Zagato, unveils a watch that rethinks the very idea of technical lightness. The Chopard Zagato Lab One Concept combines automotive aesthetics with engineering designed to minimize mass while maintaining the standards of precision expected of a watch manufacturer.
Design and materials
The 42 mm case is made of ceramic-coated titanium, a process that essentially hardens the metal's surface to improve its scratch resistance. According to the manufacturer's product sheet, the main plate, bridges, and even the case middle are also treated in the same way. The dial echoes the movement plate, engraved with Zagato's "Z" motif, and the whole ensemble follows a tubular architecture inspired by race car chassis.
Tubular architecture and ergonomics
The tubular structure supports movement by distributing mechanical stress in the event of an impact. Open tubular lugs allow the strap to be attached, while incorporating a pivoting mechanism limited to approximately 45° on each side. This primarily promotes rigidity and mobility, although it does make the design a little more complex, of course.
Movement and performance
This watch features the L.U.C 04.04-L caliber, which is an evolution of the Engine One Tourbillon. According to some reports, it features a 60-second tourbillon, runs at a frequency of 4 Hz, and offers a power reserve of 60 hours. It is chronometer-certified and also incorporates devices to ensure stability and protection, such as elastomer silent blocks and four lever arms housed in the case middle.
Technical solutions for lightness
Many choices were made to reduce weight: ceramic coating of the titanium, ceramic-coated titanium bridges and platinum, and above all, an aluminum tourbillon cage. These elements are somewhat reminiscent of the techniques used in motor racing to optimize power-to-weight ratio, which is quite impressive, in fact.
Weight and limited edition
According to several specialist media outlets, the watch weighs approximately 36.5 grams without the strap, and 43.2 grams with the strap. Production is limited to just 19 pieces, in line with what has been communicated by the company and reported by the specialist press, making it a truly rare item.
Divergent prices and communications
The prices listed vary depending on the source. On Chopard's official website and the Time and Watches website, the price is listed as €149,500. Other media outlets, such as Wallpaper, Monochrome, and Hodinkee, cite a price of 130,000 Swiss francs. These differences show that communication about this watch has not yet been fully harmonized, which is not surprising.
Context and meaning
The Lab One Concept continues the "Lab" approach initiated by Chopard, beginning with the Mille Miglia Lab One in 2020. In fact, according to many, this type of exercise serves primarily to showcase technical expertise, while fueling interest in collaborations between watchmaking and the automotive industry, which seem so natural together.
Critical appraisal
This project combines aesthetic audacity with technical constraints, which , frankly, is no easy feat. The real challenge is striking a balance between making the watch lighter while ensuring its robustness, all while incorporating elements inspired by the automotive world. However, given its price and rarity, questions remain about its accessibility and whether the investment is justified.
Conclusion
In summary, the Chopard Zagato Lab One Concept clearly illustrates a strong trend: that of transforming the world of fine watchmaking by incorporating materials and concepts borrowed from the automotive industry. According to the brand and several specialists, it is primarily a niche product, both technical and symbolic, intended for a clientele of truly passionate collectors, broadly speaking.
Source: Noah Wire Services