The Swiss manufacturer unveils a bold limited edition of its iconic Portugieser Chronograph. Clad in matte black Ceratanium, this version combines structural lightness, resistance, and contemporary aesthetics, while maintaining a decidedly elite price point.
An icon revisited in pure black
The Portugieser Chronograph has undergone a radical transformation. IWC has unveiled this all-black version in Ceratanium, limited to just 1,500 pieces. According to the company, the case, crown, and pushers are made entirely from this innovative titanium alloy, whose surface has been modified using a thermal process to create a dark, extremely hard ceramic layer. The watch was given early exposure on Ed Sheeran's wrist during his Australian tour, ensuring immediate media visibility.
The Alchemy of Ceratanium
Ceratanium successfully combines the lightness of titanium with the hardness of ceramic. The matte finish and deep black color are the result of carefully controlled oxidation of the alloy, a technical signature that IWC already uses in its pilot's watches. Industry experts confirm that this treatment greatly optimizes scratch resistance, although caution is still advised when it comes to violent impacts.
Fleeting nuances and craftsmanship
The dial plays the monochrome card with shades of gray and black: the anthracite gray applied numerals match the hands in the same shade, while the counters feature a lighter concentric grain pattern. This aesthetic choice favors a subtle sophistication, at the risk of slightly sacrificing legibility in low light. Also noteworthy is the tinted sapphire crystal case back, which lends the movement a mysterious allure without altering its mechanical properties.
Internally, the watch is powered by the automatic manufacture caliber 69355. Designed to succeed the Valjoux 7750 base movements, this movement offers a power reserve of 46 hours, beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour, and features a column wheel and an efficient bidirectional winding system. Its dimensions remain perfectly suited to the elegance of the Portugieser line.
Bold pricing strategy
IWC lists a catalog price of CHF 13,000 excluding tax for this reference IW371631. In Europe, prices range from €14,800 to €15,000, depending on currency fluctuations. It is important to note that this model commands a premium of around 50% over the classic steel version. This positioning raises questions, as the Portugieser Chronograph has long been the entry-level model in the manufacturer's chronograph range. The trade press is still analyzing the relevance of this additional cost linked to the exclusivity of the material.
Between heritage and radical modernity
The contrast between the classic DNA of the Portugieser and this technical finish is striking. While some purists may be confused by this fusion of elegant design and sporty execution, many praise the modern simplicity of the overall look. The watch retains its ideal proportions of 41 mm in diameter and 13.1 mm in thickness. However, it should be noted that it is not intended for water activities, as its water resistance is limited to 30 meters.
Ultimately, this Portugieser Chronograph in Ceratanium offers a contemporary take on a thirty-year-old classic. It plays on the tension between a precious watchmaking heritage and a high-tech material to appeal to lovers of discreet yet resolutely modern objects. The piece is currently available in boutiques and from authorized retailers.