Watchmaker IWC Schaffhausen revisits one of its icons with the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium®, an all-black version that combines stealthy aesthetics with cutting-edge engineering. Designed for enthusiasts of sporty yet sophisticated timepieces, this limited edition blends the timeless design of the Portugieser with contemporary high-performance materials.
A material feat: Ceratanium®
This limited edition of 1,500 pieces stands out with its 41 mm case, crown, and pushers made entirely from Ceratanium®. This signature IWC material is a titanium alloy that has undergone a special heat treatment, creating a layer of titanium oxide on the surface. The result combines the structural lightness of titanium with the hardness and scratch resistance of ceramic.
Unlike traditional black coatings such as DLC or PVD, which can deteriorate over time, the matte black color of this model is intrinsic to the material, ensuring exceptional durability and a refined, unalterable aesthetic. The pin buckle on the textured rubber strap also benefits from this innovative material.
A radical monochrome aesthetic
The stylistic approach is one of absolute modernity. The black dial, punctuated by matching appliqués and hands, gives the watch a vibrant "all-black" look. While this choice favors subtle elegance over immediate legibility, the interplay of textures subtly compensates for this lack of contrast. The azure finish of the counters at 6 and 12 o'clock, as well as the reflections on the Arabic numerals, capture the light and enliven the watch face. This monochrome approach transforms the classic Portugieser into a resolutely sporty design object.
Manufacturing mechanics
At the heart of this chronograph beats the manufacture caliber 69355, a reliable and precise automatic movement operating at a frequency of 4 Hz and offering a power reserve of 46 hours. Featuring a classic architecture with a column wheel, this engine is visible through a sapphire crystal case back. However, to maintain the visual consistency of the piece, the glass is smoked, allowing the mechanics to be glimpsed without disrupting the dark harmony of the whole. The movement is produced by ValFleurier, guaranteeing the high quality standards of the Richemont group.
Use, proportions, and exclusivity
Despite its aesthetic transformation, the watch retains the ideal proportions that have made the line so successful, with a diameter of 41 mm and a thickness of 13 mm. Wearing comfort is enhanced by the lightness of Ceratanium® and the flexibility of the rubber strap. However, it should be noted that water resistance is limited to 3 bar (30 meters), restricting this timepiece to urban or light sporting use rather than water sports.
Priced at around €15,000, this Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium® blurs the lines between a dress watch and a niche sports instrument. It is primarily aimed at collectors looking for a bold and technical reinterpretation of a great watchmaking classic.