In 2026, TAG Heuer launched the Carrera Seafarer, a contemporary reinterpretation of a historic model featuring a unique tide indicator, combining vintage design with technical innovations.
A revamped version that remains faithful while being modern
According to a source at WatchesBySJX, TAG Heuer plans to launch the Carrera Seafarer in March 2026, a contemporary reinterpretation of an old Heuer model with a tide indicator dating back to the 1940s. The watch is housed in the "Glassbox" case, specific to the Carrera range, and combines a champagne dial punctuated with teal and yellow accents while retaining the original layout designed for sailing: a minute totalizer for regattas and, at nine o'clock, a rotating disc that serves as a tide indicator. The brand says the watch will measure 42 mm in diameter, be water-resistant to 100 meters, and come with a seven-link steel bracelet, plus a beige textile strap. The company says it will be available in stores and from retailers from March 2026, with a recommended retail price of CHF 8,300 before tax. (watchesbysjx.com)
An inherited nautical identity, and how it can be explained
The idea for the tide indicator dates back to a request made by Abercrombie & Fitch to Heuer, and the intervention of young Jack Heuer, assisted by his physics teacher, Dr. Heinz Schilt. According to WatchesBySJX, this complication is based on a simple principle: tracking the relative position of the moon. Basically, a 59-tooth disc rotates in a period of approximately 29.53 days, indicating the two approximate high tides and two approximate low tides over a 24-hour period after local adjustment. TAG Heuer says it has refined this mechanism: now the disc rotates according to a more modern standard of 29.53125 days, with a drift of approximately one day every 122.5 years. The accuracy is therefore comparable to current standards for tracking moon phases. All this allows for clear reading and a vintage look, but without claiming perfect scientific accuracy in all coastal conditions. (watchesbysjx.com)
Movement and some interesting technical limitations
This watch features the TH20-04 automatic caliber, which comes from the TH20-00 platform, itself based on the Heuer 02 architecture. According to industry information, this movement offers a power reserve of approximately 80 hours and comes with an extended five-year commercial warranty, reserved for the TH20 family. The tide module replaces the chronograph hour counter, limiting the timed measurement to 30 minutes. But on the other hand, it is a very rare and visually striking complication. That said, WatchesBySJX and Monochrome point out that the in-house TH-Carbonspring balance spring, which was praised last year, has not yet been integrated. Adopting it in the future would greatly increase the sophistication of this caliber and could even bring TAG Heuer closer to its competitors equipped with a free-sprung escapement. Furthermore, the finish of the movement remains deliberately industrial, which may give the impression of a slightly lower level of finish than that of some other manufacturers. (watchesbysjx.com)
Design: a modern look with a retro touch
The "Glassbox" case gives the dial a truly sculptural depth, especially with its non-existent bezel and highly domed sapphire crystal. The opaline beige dial, combined with the beveled inner bezel, makes it easy to read. Aesthetically, it features yellow gold-plated hour markers, teal rehauts called "Intrepid Teal," a dedicated push-button at nine o'clock for correction, and a segmented minute counter for regatta starts every five minutes, clearly inspired by the past while maintaining a modern language. WatchesBySJX points out that while the date at six o'clock is controversial from a stylistic point of view, it has a certain legitimacy as it makes it easier to consult tide tables. (watchesbysjx.com)
Positioning and possible variants
The Seafarer is one of the new Carrera models presented at LVMH Watch Week in 2026, with a 41 mm version and a split-seconds chronograph, according to reports by Hypebeast and Maxim. TAG Heuer has also launched a collaboration with Hodinkee, with a special "Seafarer x Hodinkee" edition, whose price varies slightly: T3 mentions a price of $7,950 for this collaborative version, suggesting that the price may vary depending on the partners or the market. The base model remains the steel version sold for CHF 8,300 before tax, as confirmed by the brand's website. (hypebeast.com)
Analysis and critical review
This reissue essentially offers a rare glimpse into Heuer's heritage, combining historical utility with modern design. The tide indicator, which is quite rare on the market, really adds a distinctive touch. However, it must also be acknowledged that the technical compromise, notably the replacement of the hour totalizer with this tide indicator and the absence of the in-house balance spring, may discourage those who are primarily interested in performance. Finally, the somewhat rough mechanical finish and the massive case are likely to divide opinion: some purists will favor functionality or original authenticity, while others will expect a higher level of finish for a watch of this kind. (watchesbysjx.com)
Summary technical data sheet
- – Reference: CBS2016.EB0430
- – Diameter: 42 mm
- – Thickness: 14.4 mm
- – Material: stainless steel
- – Water resistance: 100 m
- – Movement: TH20-04, automatic, 80-hour power reserve
- – Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, tide indicator
- – Bracelets: seven-link steel + beige fabric
- – Availability: starting in March 2026
- – Price: CHF 8,300 excluding tax (standard model). (tagheuer.com)
Source: Noah Wire Services