Polène chooses Milan for its first Italian store. The French brand has just opened a 343-square-meter boutique in the heart of the Quadrilatero, at 37 Via Manzoni, in the space previously occupied by Elisabetta Franchi. Founded in 2016, the women's leather goods brand stands out for its "timeless" designs, as CEO and co-founder Antoine Mothay points out. The collections are crafted by 2,200 artisans in Ubrique, Andalusia, favoring natural shades and organic shapes shaped by innovative techniques: leather molded on wood, drapes secured by hand-stitched stitches, weaves and folds similar to origami created from complex patterns.
Total control over production and quality
"We are present in the factories every day, we can control everything, guarantee traceability, teach, learn, and constantly exchange ideas. It's a very short production cycle, which helps us enormously in maintaining and improving the quality of the manufacturing," explains Mothay. 70% of the leather used comes from Italy, and since 2023, Polène has expanded into jewelry, unveiling collections gilded with 24-karat gold, entirely made on the peninsula. "From the outset, the goal was to provide customers with the best possible product, based on two fundamental pillars: design and quality, both in terms of materials and workmanship. In the beginning, we spent over a year visiting factories in different countries to understand and perfect every detail before the launch. It's a long-term project."
Exclusive distribution and measured international expansion
Polène products are sold exclusively through single-brand stores and the official online store. Bags start at €350, while special editions can cost up to €600. The brand currently has 11 stores worldwide; in addition to Milan, there are boutiques in Paris (two single-brand stores and a corner in the Le Bon Marché department store), New York, Tokyo, Seoul, London, Hamburg, Copenhagen, and Beijing, the latter two of which opened last November. Retail expansion will continue in 2026: "In the second half of the year, we will open stores in Chicago and California, Dubai, a second store in Tokyo, and one in Osaka. We are moving forward calmly: we don't like to rush. 100% of our global distribution is direct; we sell online, but we firmly believe in physical retail. Online, it's possible to convey a lot of information, but it's not the same emotion. In-store, the team is trained for months before the opening to learn every detail: materials, colors, stitching, finishes. That's what customers are looking for today."
Economic results are balanced across all geographical areas, with online sales slightly higher than offline sales. The CEO does not disclose financial results, "but I can say that we are growing every year in a very dynamic but healthy way. We are not chasing sales: for us, the goal is the customer experience. If the work is done well, sales will follow."
Creativity, circularity, and architecture
Circularity is one of the brand's guiding principles, as evidenced by the "Plèi" collection, which includes macramé bags made from upcycled leather beads, leather brick walls, floral interior objects, and collaborative creations with guest artisans. Polène recently collaborated with Irish stylist Róisín Pierce, presenting two bags at Paris Fashion Week last March. The brand remains open to new partnerships with designers and artists.
The Milan flagship store was entrusted to Norm Architects. The project draws inspiration from Milanese architectural codes: sober, discreet facades that conceal bright interiors, rich in detail and contrast. Each material evolves in color and texture, from raw to refined. The immersive "Craft at Work" experience welcomes customers through the "Leather Orchestra": a small dedicated space where visitors are surrounded by leather panels, where material and sound come together in an immersive performance. The entrance is dominated by stone, inspired by the floors of the Lombard capital. This is followed by the space dedicated to fabrics, where the walls, rounded sofas, and carpets create an enveloping atmosphere. Then opens up the world of leather, whose craftsmanship is inspired by the workshops of Ubrique. Wood is also present as a warm and tactile element, as is the possibility of personalizing creations with initials. Ceramics adorn the last space, which houses a work by Italian artist Clara Graziolino, highlighting the common thread with the talents of the region.
Milan: a strategic and cultural choice
"Milan was a natural choice for us. It is a major fashion capital, with a strong focus on craftsmanship and expertise. We know that Italian customers are very knowledgeable, discerning, and attentive; they understand the complexity of design and high quality, which is part of Italian culture. That's why we think it's a very interesting encounter and it's important for us to be here. The store on Via Manzoni is designed as a sensory journey, room after room, each dedicated to a material: stone, wood, ceramics, leather. The boutique is not just a point of sale, but a place of emotion and knowledge," concludes the CEO.