Under the creative direction of Matteo Tamburini, Tod’s unveils a collection that celebrates the excellence of Italian craftsmanship, blending tradition and modernity with a particular focus on sustainability and personalization. For his third season at the helm of the creative direction, the designer continues his exploration of the house’s roots with the Fall/Winter 2026 collection. Named “Italian Signature,” this line builds on the “Artisanal Intelligence” project by elevating craftsmanship and the nobility of materials as the central pillars of elegance.
This season, leather takes center stage as the defining element. Pashmy—a calfskin treated for exceptional softness and deep hues—features prominently on numerous pants and skirts. Other textures, ranging from nappa to patinated calfskin, shape coats, quilted bomber jackets, and reimagined trench coats with an almost couture-like structure. According to Vogue, Matteo Tamburini draws here on the great tradition of Italian design, drawing on aesthetic references ranging from Vico Magistretti to Gio Ponti to orchestrate a subtle balance between generous volumes and fitted cuts.
Architectural silhouettes and an organic color palette
The collection skillfully plays on contrasts: loose, enveloping pieces interact with defined waists and cropped sleeves. The scarf dresses, crafted with graphic patchwork, feature a palette of natural tones—ginger, chocolate, burnt caramel—while the trench coats and peacoats gain sophistication thanks to finishes borrowed from haute couture. This approach has been highlighted by the international press, which also notes the brand’s commitment to a more circular fashion model: a prime example is this dress—a true manifesto—crafted from strips of recycled leather.
As the brand’s flagship segment, leather goods remain a laboratory for innovation. The famous Di Bag
is reimagined as a bowling bag, the Wave Bag
is enhanced with saddle-style topstitching, and the T Timeless
is available in nappa leather or silky-soft pony hair. The focus is on ultra-personalization, a strong trend noted by industry observers: slim belts adorned with precious metal letters reinterpret the spirit of classic monograms, transforming the accessory into a bespoke piece. The metallic finishes, meanwhile, subtly echo the Gommino’s signature style, right down to the buckles.
The Evolution of Icons
Tod’s boldly reimagines its classics. The iconic Gommino moccasin now features a rounded toe, available in smooth leather or animal print. Ankle boots adorned with equestrian-inspired straps lend a bold character, while an ultra-flexible suede version modernizes the brand’s signature sneaker. A live demonstration of the Gommino’s handcrafted production serves as a reminder that behind every stylistic evolution lies masterful craftsmanship.
To showcase this collection, the set design chose to blur the line between the artwork and the artisan. The fashion show took place in the heart of a space transformed into a living workshop, where experts worked before the audience’s eyes: coral sculptors Vincenzo and Manuel Aucella, embroiderer Maria Teresa Bergamaschi, goldsmith Lorenzo Parisi Asaro, and the Camurati family with their artistic fans. These sets, designed by Pictalab, reflect a clear strategy: to make every stage of the creative process visible, from raw material to finished object.
This approach is part of a broader movement aimed at articulating an aesthetic that is both delicate and emotionally rich, while incorporating the imperatives of sustainability. There is now a seamless continuity between the men’s and women’s collections, united by this treatment of leather, crafted to be as light as it is supple. By reconciling heritage and modernity, and by emphasizing traceability and the human touch, Tod’s is forging a distinct Italian identity, where time-honored techniques and contemporary design interact to redefine luxury.