The French brand Awake highlights the dial as the true focal point of its watches, showcasing the traditional Vietnamese Son Mài technique. With the launch of its first permanent collection, the Royal Blue—released as a limited edition of 200 pieces—the brand marks a major evolution in its creative identity.
A brand born from the art of the dial
Awake has distinguished itself in the contemporary watchmaking landscape with a unique approach: making the dial the absolute heart of its creations, far beyond a mere aesthetic element. As Scottish Watches points out, the French brand has forged its identity around Son Mài, an ancient Vietnamese lacquer technique brilliantly adapted to the world of watchmaking. This approach gives each timepiece an immediate, almost painterly presence, a far cry from the mechanical excess that sometimes characterizes the industry.
While the principle may seem straightforward at first glance—the meticulous application of multiple layers of lacquer enriched with pigments, metallic effects, or gold leaf—the execution requires infinite patience and a true sense of composition. In a market saturated with the pursuit of uniqueness, Awake favors a more organic and tangible path: allowing the material to express itself fully.
The Royal Blue: Lacquer Enhanced by Gold
The brand’s latest creation, the Royal Blue, takes things to a new level by introducing pure gold leaf into the Son Mài universe for the first time. According to WatchPro, this edition is limited to 200 numbered pieces, priced at 3,000 euros. This pricing is modest given the demands of the craft: creating just one of these dials requires nearly fifteen hours of meticulous manual labor.
This technical detail places Awake in a unique category: that of visible, unapologetic, and accessible artistic craftsmanship. Whereas other manufacturers reserve this level of finish for inaccessible haute horlogerie pieces, Awake incorporates it as a defining signature. This approach, without disregarding the inherent limitations of such production, brings undeniable economic and aesthetic coherence to the whole.
The Launch of a Permanent Collection
Scottish Watches also notes that the Son Mài line marks a pivotal transition, becoming Awake’s first permanent collection. Previously known for its occasional limited editions, the brand is demonstrating its commitment to the long term and to establishing a lasting stylistic language that goes beyond a mere flash in the pan.
The steel case retains elegant proportions with its 39-mm diameter. It houses the La Joux-Perret G101 automatic movement, boasting a 68-hour power reserve. While the movement is designed to be reliable rather than revolutionary, this aligns perfectly with the brand’s philosophy: prioritizing visual storytelling over pure technical demonstration, much like certain prestigious independent brands where the dial now captures the light once reserved solely for the movements themselves.
A Fusion of Vietnamese Tradition and Swiss Precision
The incorporation of Son Mài goes far beyond mere ornamentation. This Vietnamese technique, skillfully combining the application of lacquer, delicate sanding, and inlays, creates an incomparable depth of texture. As noted by The Manual, the Son Mai Fragments collection combines this artisanal foundation with mother-of-pearl, offering a decidedly contemporary take on surface marquetry.
This precision, by contrast, evokes the approach of leading figures in independent watchmaking such as Kari Voutilainen, celebrated for the masterful execution of their handcrafted dials. Without seeking a direct comparison, it appears that Awake has grasped a fundamental truth: in watchmaking with character, rarity alone is no longer enough; it must be accompanied by a visual signature recognizable at first glance.
The Demands of Artisanal Craftsmanship
The appeal of Awake’s approach lies as much in what it reveals as in the uncompromising standards it imposes. The brand’s commitment to the arts and crafts is central, yet it is expressed without excessive romanticism. The design of these dials requires time, rigor, and consistency in execution—qualities that are ill-suited to the fleeting dynamics of the market.
An inherent tension in this positioning becomes apparent: the more the brand values the artisan’s craftsmanship, the more it must guarantee its impeccable consistency. It is at this crossroads that the credibility of emerging brands is put to the test. Awake approaches this challenge not as a mere rhetorical argument, but as a genuine guiding principle—the ultimate guarantee of its legitimacy.
A Lasting Vision of Independence
The journey of its founder, Lilian—whose passion for watchmaking is said to have begun with a Panerai before leading him to build his own brand—lends a human depth to the project. While such journeys are common in the independent watchmaking sphere, the story takes on its full meaning here because it culminates in a straightforward proposition: to put the art of dial-making back at the center of attention, without reducing it to a disembodied stylistic exercise.
This is undoubtedly where Awake’s true uniqueness lies. The brand does not merely court collectors in the circles of haute horlogerie. It is committed to demonstrating that a high-caliber artisanal approach can thrive in a more affordable segment. It is a bold promise, whose ultimate challenge—like that of any demanding design project—will be to endure and stand the test of time.