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Add Texture to GoogleThe name evokes the gear of a fisherman braving the sea, but the Harpoon Revival is better suited to wrists tucked beneath a shirt sleeve. That is the rather appealing paradox of this watch, which Favre Leuba reintroduced in the spring of 2026: behind a rugged name lies a polished steel city watch—slim and understated—designed with a very contemporary appreciation for the proportions of past decades. Sixty years after the 1966 model whose spirit it embodies, it opts for restraint rather than a show of strength.
The return of a format that the watch industry had abandoned
With a diameter of 36.8 mm and a thickness of 10 mm, the Harpoon Revival stands in stark contrast to the oversized cases that have long dominated the sports and versatile watch segment. However, its dimensions are not merely a matter of decorative nostalgia. They reflect a trend that has been evident for several years: the resurgence of a strong interest in more compact watches, reminiscent of vintage proportions.
Here, Favre Leuba avoids the pitfall of the miniature watch. The 43.5-mm distance between the lugs gives the watch a presence on the wrist and allows the bracelet to follow its curve naturally. The watch thus maintains a noticeable presence without veering into ostentation. It is this geometry—more than the mere figure of the diameter—that defines its character: a refined watch, designed to be worn for a long time rather than to be noticed from a distance.
The steel case provides a reassuring solidity. Its polished finish gives it a formal, almost ceremonial look, tempered by a water resistance of 50 meters, or 5 bars. This does not turn the Harpoon Revival into a marine instrument, despite its name; rather, this versatility ensures it is not confined solely to formal occasions. It belongs to that family of timepieces capable of transitioning from an office to a dinner party without changing its tone.
A dress watch, without the formality
The first version of the Harpoon Revival featured a gray dial. Favre Leuba is now expanding this offering with two new variations: black and blue. The change seems simple on paper, but it significantly alters the model’s personality. The gray retains a discreet, almost mineral-like character. Black accentuates the formal aspect of the design, reinforcing the impression of a watch intended for occasions where understated elegance matters just as much as style.
Blue, on the other hand, represents a more significant shift. It introduces a bold color into a collection that was initially rooted in shades of gray and black. The three dials feature a sunburst brushed finish, which causes their appearance to shift with the light. This surface treatment avoids a flat look and gives the blue a more dynamic presence than a simple solid color.
The rhodium-plated hour markers and hands further enhance this pursuit of clarity. Nothing attempts to overemphasize the historical connection through graphic artifices or forced aging. The Harpoon Revival borrows its proportions and restraint from 1966, not a reenactment-style design. It is a logical choice for a watch that aims to live in the present: it does not imitate the past, but rather embraces its discipline.
This chromatic openness also hints at a collection that is less rigid than it appears. Blue marks the first true departure from the monochrome palette, while black lends the model a more austere expression. Two almost opposing interpretations: one introduces a bit of visual movement, while the other embraces the rigor of a contemporary formal watch.
The Movement as the Core Element
The Harpoon Revival is not merely a matter of proportions and the dial. Beneath its solid caseback lies the FLD04 caliber, a Favre Leuba automatic movement based on the La Joux-Perret G100. It beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour—or 4 Hz—and offers a 68-hour power reserve. This autonomy allows you to set the watch aside for nearly three days without having to immediately reset the time.
The choice of a solid case back protects the movement while still showcasing the brand’s identity on the exterior: the Favre Leuba logo is prominently displayed there, without turning the back of the watch into a mechanical showcase. Here again, the model’s design philosophy remains consistent. The Harpoon Revival prioritizes wearability, design, and everyday use over the spectacle of the movement.
The crown at the 3 o’clock position is used for winding and setting the time. The functions are those expected of a watch of this nature: hours, minutes, seconds, and date. This simplicity does not mean a lack of ambition; rather, it focuses attention on the elements that are essential for a timepiece designed to be worn regularly by its owner: clear readability, an automatic movement, and a generous power reserve.
A rare price point under 2,000 Swiss francs
The price is the same across all versions: 1,800 Swiss francs, or approximately 1,638 British pounds or 2,190 dollars. At this price point, Favre Leuba positions the Harpoon Revival in a category where design, proportions, and the nature of the movement must work in harmony. The watch does not seek to impress with a complication or a spectacular case design. Its appeal lies instead in a combination that is difficult to achieve at this price point: polished steel, a case size under 37 mm, a finely finished dial, and an automatic movement based on the La Joux-Perret G100.
The straps complement the character of each model. The black dial is paired with a black leather strap, while the blue version features a brown leather strap. In both cases, a steel pin buckle completes the look. This choice stays true to the overall design philosophy: no metal bracelet to make the silhouette appear harsh, but rather a supple material that immediately positions the watch as a dress watch.
The Harpoon Revival thus offers a particularly clear vision of what a reissue in 2026 could look like. It does not treat the anniversary of the 1966 model as an excuse to overload the design with historical references. Rather, it reintroduces a certain vision of the dress watch: compact, well-proportioned, mechanically reliable, and water-resistant enough to avoid becoming “delicate” in the negative sense of the word. The new black and blue colorways now give this foundation two distinct personalities, without compromising its clean lines.
To explore the different variations and the Harpoon collection, visit the Favre Leuba website.