The Evolution of Milan’s Nightlife: From Tradition to the Avant-Garde
In a residential neighborhood in eastern Milan, regulars lean on the bar at Banco d’Assaggio, a traditional spot like so many others in the Lombard capital. But a mere hundred-meter walk toward the park is all it takes to enter a completely different world. Behind an unassuming facade without a single sign, the patio at Fiorin Fiorello is teeming with a trendy crowd sipping French white wines alongside beautiful cheese platters, all accompanied by the sound of custom speakers mounted on the walls.
Until recently, this kind of hybrid concept simply didn’t exist in Milan. The nightlife scene was strictly divided between old-school bistros and more contemporary spots that sometimes lacked soul. Today, driven by a new generation of city dwellers, Milan is catching up to metropolises like London, Paris, Copenhagen, and New York. A truly unique Milanese aesthetic is emerging, where raw stainless steel meets meticulously crafted, subdued lighting.
When the aperitif stretches into the wee hours
For Luca Marullo, co-founder of the design studio Parasite 2.0 (behind the interiors of Fiorin Fiorello and Sandì in Porta Venezia), the emergence of these new establishments reflects a profound shift in habits. Gone are the days of grabbing a quick drink before heading to a nightclub. Now, patrons prefer to settle in for the entire evening, savor fine wines, and eventually dance right there.
The experience is, in fact, almost theatrical. At Fiorin Fiorello, run by American sommelier Louis Turano, you enter the space by parting a heavy curtain. The decor skillfully contrasts contemporary steel with touches of old Milan, such as the walls covered in burl walnut, which was all the rage in the 1970s. On the ceiling, a massive light box shifts from yellow to bright red as the hours pass—a trend toward scarlet lighting found in other popular spots like Bar Nico or the recently opened Bar Sensa. From Thursday to Saturday, the atmosphere shifts completely when the DJ booth comes to life.
“The goal was to create a real synergy between wine culture and music culture,” explains Luca Fiore, one of the four partners. A unique concept, halfway between a dining wine cellar and a listening bar, inspired by local pioneers like Mogo or San.
The bar, the new hub of conviviality
Another hallmark of this new scene is the widespread adoption of high stools, heavily inspired by New York standards. This trend, which puts conversation back at the heart of the experience, was notably driven by Silvano, a neighborhood spot in Nolo where guests sit directly facing a long stainless-steel bar.
This culture of closeness is also the charm of Kiwon, a Korean wine bar and restaurant dedicated to small plates for sharing. Designed by the firm Oooh Studio, the space offers a few classic tables, but the most coveted seats remain those perched in front of the vast open kitchen. This is exactly the buzz that founders Carmine Colucci, Emanuele Romanelli, and chef Ha Neul Ko were looking for: offering customers a front-row seat, where the unexpected can happen at any moment.
A breath of fresh air in Asian cuisine
Kiwon’s menu breathes new life into the city’s Asian offerings with a decidedly modern take on traditional recipes. Here you can enjoy the classic tteokbokki rice cakes spiced with gochujang, a spicy fermented soybean paste, as well as perfectly fried chicken. The menu also ventures into bolder creations, such as a turbot carpaccio or a surprising roast beef sandwich topped with marinated white radish and a subtly spiced mayonnaise.
This same contemporary, unpretentious approach is the secret to Balay’s success, a vibrant spot in the Porta Venezia neighborhood, not far from the excellent specialty coffee shop Rito. This small, laid-back spot offers unique beers, a curated wine selection, and dishes bursting with flavor. In less than a year, the place has established itself as one of the city’s hottest spots, to the point where securing a table can sometimes be a challenge.
“The vision of Asian cuisine is finally evolving in Milan, with a much younger energy,” notes Ray Ibarra, the founder of Balay. Of Filipino origin and a well-known figure on the local scene after years at the helm of Bentoteca, he conceived his restaurant as an ode to the culinary influences of his roots, blending Chinese, Spanish, and American touches.
The atmosphere is intentionally intimate. Soul, funk, and jazz music flows from a state-of-the-art sound system, while the raw walls are adorned with family photos brought back from the Philippines. Beneath the exposed metal shelves, diners savor the house’s signature dish: shrimp toast with sesame and herbs, to be dipped heartily in banana ketchup, all paired with an Austrian orange wine. A bold move rewarded by the Milanese’s explosive enthusiasm.
Address Book
Fiorin Fiorello
Via Fratelli Bronzetti, 38
Sandì
Via Francesco Hayez, 13
Bar Nico
Via Cesare Saldini, 2
Bar Sensa
Via Garofalo, 21
Mogo
Via Bernina, 1C
San
Via Cesare da Sesto, 1
Silvano Wines and Food at the Counter
Piazza Morbegno, 2
Kiwon
Via Macedonia Melloni, 35
Balay
Via Achille Maiocchi, 26
Rito
18 Achille Maiocchi Street