In the understated world of independent watchmaking, there is a constant quest for the perfect balance: that rare moment when dimensions, mechanics, and price align with mathematical precision. The Biel-based company Formex seems to have made this pursuit its hallmark. With the evolution of its flagship model, the Essence 39, the brand isn’t seeking to reinvent the wheel, but rather to perfect its inner workings. This is not an aesthetic revolution, but a profound transformation of its beating heart and its finishes, affirming a determination never to rest on its laurels, even in the face of already established commercial success.
A Quantum Leap in Mechanical Power Reserve
The most radical change isn’t visible at first glance; it’s felt over time. Formex has chosen to incorporate the very latest innovation from Swiss movement manufacturer Sellita: the SW200-2 Power+ caliber. While the technical terminology may seem dry to the uninitiated, the technical reality speaks for itself. The power reserve has increased from a standard 41 hours to an extended 65 hours. This gain of nearly 60% radically transforms the user experience. In practical terms, a watch set aside on Friday evening will still be running accurately on Monday morning, thus meeting the demands of modern life, where people increasingly switch between different watches depending on their schedule.
This performance is not achieved at the expense of accuracy. Quite the contrary: the movement retains its chronometer certification issued by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute). Each movement undergoes a series of tests over fifteen days, in five positions and at three different temperatures, ensuring a minimal rate deviation. For enthusiasts of fine watchmaking, this caliber is showcased through a transparent case back. There, one can admire a reworked oscillating weight, featuring a vertical brushed finish that highlights the technical and architectural aspects of the timepiece. With a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), the seconds hand maintains its smooth sweep—a visual hallmark of Swiss high-frequency timekeeping.
A color palette ranging from ice to copper
The aesthetic of the Essence collection is based on an instantly recognizable dial structure: these horizontal lines, CNC-machined to add architectural depth to the overall design. For this new iteration, the brand offers three variations that redefine the watch’s character. The Alpine White version is undoubtedly the most distinctive. Here, the dial’s immaculate white is contrasted by deep blue hands and hour markers. This contrast creates a cool, almost polar atmosphere that gains in legibility what it loses in classicism. It is a modern interpretation of the “sport-chic” watch that strays from the beaten path.
In contrast, the Radiant Bronze version explores warmer tones. This is not solid bronze, which is prone to oxidation, but a light coppery shade that captures the light with a distinctive softness. It’s a hue that changes depending on the angle of the wrist, shifting from a metallic sheen to more matte reflections. Finally, blue—a timeless classic in contemporary watchmaking—remains in the collection in a version similar to the previous model, ensuring continuity for those seeking absolute versatility. The faceted baton hour markers and hands retain their sharp design, ensuring instant time-reading in all lighting conditions.
The Ergonomics of the “Sweet Spot”
The 39-mm-diameter case, just 10.5 mm thick, remains the standout feature of this collection. In a market that is rediscovering the merits of smaller case diameters, these proportions are often described as “perfect” by collectors. They allow the watch to slip effortlessly under a shirt cuff while maintaining a bold presence on the wrist thanks to an imposing steel bezel and visible screws that give it a distinctly industrial character.
The notable improvement in this version lies in the adoption of a screw-down crown. While water resistance remains at 100 meters (10 bars)—which is more than sufficient for daily use, including swimming—the screw-down crown provides additional psychological and physical reassurance. It better protects the movement against accidental ingress of water or dust, reinforcing the Essence 39’s status as a “tool watch.” There’s no longer any need to worry about everyday bumps or the unexpected challenges of an active lifestyle. Formex demonstrates here that it is possible to enhance a case’s durability without compromising its slimness or elegance.
A Clear Value Proposition
The pricing of the new collection reflects its technical upgrade. Priced at £1,470 (approximately $1,850) on a leather, nylon, or rubber strap, and £1,570 (approximately $1,980) on its stainless steel bracelet, the watch represents a price increase of approximately £130 to £145 compared to the previous generation. In the current Swiss watchmaking landscape, this increase appears particularly modest, especially given the gain in power reserve and the addition of the screw-down crown. The steel bracelet, with its micro-adjustment system and screw-down links, remains a benchmark for comfort in this price range.
For those who prefer the lightness of technical materials, the nylon or rubber strap options feature a carbon-fiber deployant clasp—a detail often reserved for much higher price segments. This attention to detail in the accessories underscores the brand’s philosophy: to offer a comprehensive experience where every point of contact with the wearer is optimized. The Essence 39 is not just a timekeeping instrument; it is an object designed for intensive use, without compromising on chronometric precision.
Ultimately, this update to the Essence 39mm Automatic COSC demonstrates a clear sense of maturity. By focusing on mechanical self-winding capability and case security, while refreshing its visual palette, the Swiss brand is solidifying its position. It offers a serious alternative to the industry’s major players by emphasizing technical transparency and meticulous craftsmanship. This is a watch designed for those for whom luxury lies not in the logo, but in the intrinsic quality of an object built to last and to mark every second with certified precision.