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Add Texture to GoogleThe segment of watches priced under 700 pounds is often treated as a stepping stone: one where you’d have to choose between an unambitious mechanical movement and an overly flashy design. The five models featured here tell a different story. They showcase brands that seek less to imitate the conventions of haute horlogerie than to forge a distinct identity through their dials, functions, or silhouettes. A disc that transitions from day to night, a full calendar with icy hues, a deliberately minimalist Swiss watch, a gold dress watch powered by an automatic movement, and a chronograph inspired by birds of prey: at these prices, personality becomes the ultimate luxury.
The Dial as a Canvas for Expression
The KronSegler Solaris Sun Phase Automatic, priced at 499 pounds sterling, chooses to visualize the passage of time over the long term. Beneath its dial, a 24-hour disc moves slowly, gradually shifting the display from the daytime to the nighttime. This animation is linked to Project Sonnenphase, a reflection by KronSegler on the ways in which civilizations have, throughout history, observed and measured the sun.
However, the watch is not limited to this astronomical theme. Its 42-mm case, 12 mm thick, is crafted from gold-plated 316L stainless steel. The overall design embodies the character of a robust watch, with a construction that emphasizes its presence on the wrist. The automatic movement, based on a Citizen 9132, beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour, features 26 jewels, and offers a 42-hour power reserve. The calfskin strap fastens with a butterfly clasp equipped with two safety pushers. This design contrasts an almost contemplative visual complexity with a more functional aesthetic.
Surface finishing takes a different direction at AV86. The 1564 Chronodate Ice Blue, priced at $599—approximately 448 British pounds—is part of the brand’s anniversary collection. Its name alone sums up its appeal: a pale, cool blue that sets the watch apart from the brown, black, and navy blue typically associated with calendar watches.
Beneath a domed sapphire crystal, the dial features a gradient texture and displays the day, date, month, and a 24-hour sub-dial. This wealth of information is framed by a case with curved lines, alternating between polished and brushed finishes. The AV86 thus plays on two temporal dimensions: a nod to vintage design through its overall shape and domed crystal, paired with a more contemporary execution in the contrasts of materials and the dial’s color scheme. The exceptionally slim Miyota 9120 automatic movement provides a 40-hour power reserve.
Minimalism is not the absence of choice
In contrast to narrative or feature-laden dials, the Mudita Radiant embraces a methodical reduction. Here, there are no intrusive logos or an accumulation of text. Readability is the guiding principle, with a design that conveys its essence through proportions, textures, and colors. This discretion does not imply a superficial treatment of technical elements.
The Radiant is powered by a Sellita SW 200 Elaboré automatic movement, regulated to a specified range of -7 to +20 seconds per day and offering a 41-hour power reserve. Its brushed 316L stainless steel case was designed in collaboration with Chrono AG in Solothurn. The sapphire crystal features an anti-reflective coating, while the dial is treated with Super-LumiNova BGW9. The watch is water-resistant to 100 meters.
Mudita offers this model in three sizes: 32 mm, 37 mm, and 40 mm. This decision is far from trivial: it ensures that a one-size-fits-all approach isn’t imposed on a watch whose design is based precisely on balance. Six dials inspired by natural hues are available, ranging from Natural White to Pebble Gray. The quick-change vegan straps complement this philosophy of understated and adaptable design. The Radiant starts at 605 British pounds and champions an idea that’s quite rare in this price range: making features stand out through their relevance, not through sheer quantity.
A dressy look, without sacrificing mechanical movement
Gold plating remains a delicate art. It can quickly tip a watch toward the decorative, especially when a modest price point leads to a preference for quartz. The Matthew Mercury Æternum Automatic, priced at 699 pounds sterling, takes the opposite approach. Its polished 18-karat gold-plated case houses a Swiss Sellita SW220-1 self-winding movement. This mechanical choice adds depth to a timepiece that might otherwise have been nothing more than a fashion accessory.
The black stone dial creates a striking contrast with the case’s brilliance. At 3 o’clock, a window displays both the day and the date. The watch draws inspiration from vintage designs, evident in the combination of gold, black, and the crocodile-patterned strap. But its 100-meter water resistance elevates the model beyond the realm of a mere dress watch. The strap is interchangeable—a welcome option for toning down the ensemble’s very formal character or, conversely, amplifying it to the fullest.
The Æternum suggests that an affordable gold watch need not settle for merely replicating outward signs of prestige. Its appeal lies in the juxtaposition of a classic aesthetic with a Swiss movement designed to bring the watch to life every day. Here, luxury does not depend on solid gold; it lies in the harmony between the design and the mechanism that drives it.
The Chronograph as a Manifesto for a Young Brand
The most direct offering undoubtedly comes from Maystone. The brand’s second collection, the Skybreaker Chronograph, takes its name and spirit from birds of prey. The three launch models—Peregrine Falcon, Blue Eagle, and Steppe Eagle—immediately evoke a world of wildlife without resorting to the conventional themes of military aviation or motorsports, two realms typically dominated by affordable chronographs.
Priced at 299 pounds sterling, the Skybreaker is equipped with a VK63 meca-quartz movement. This design combines the convenience of quartz with chronograph functionality in a compact format: a 40-mm case, 48 mm from lug to lug, and 11.5 mm thick. Its design is based on the concept of an integrated bracelet, a silhouette that extends the lines of the case rather than clearly separating the watch from the bracelet. Its 100-meter water resistance also gives it a more versatile appeal than that of a chronograph designed solely for the office.
The speed of its launch speaks to the current appetite for straightforward designs. In September, the Skybreaker’s Kickstarter campaign reached its funding goal in less than an hour. This success doesn’t overshadow Maystone’s youth, but it confirms the interest generated by a watch that moves forward without drawing on historical references.
Between the Skybreaker’s £299 and the Æternum’s £699, the landscape is less uniform than it appears. The choice may come down to a function, a case diameter, a movement type, or a color—but it can also stem from a more intimate relationship with time: tracking a solar phase with KronSegler, reading a full calendar with AV86, seeking graphic simplicity with Mudita, or wearing gold paired with an automatic movement from Matthew Mercury. At this price point, a watch is no longer just a single compromise. It becomes a statement.