Make Texture a preferred source on Google to support us
Add Texture to GoogleA prosecutor in charge of investigations into labor exploitation and an Air Force colonel who has participated in space missions: these two guests say a lot about the concerns of the Italian fashion industry. Paolo Storari and Walter Villadei are scheduled to appear at the fifth Venice Sustainable Fashion Forum on November 5 and 6 at the Giorgio Cini Foundation in Venice. Between the manufacturing conditions in the luxury sector and the applications of textiles in aerospace, the connection may seem surprising. Yet it raises the same fundamental question: what is an industry worth if it has no control over how it produces today or what it might produce tomorrow?
Prestige Put to the Test in the Workshops
Paolo Storari’s presence lends the Venice event particular significance. The magistrate is leading investigations into the exploitation of workers and the use of illegal labor recruitment systems involving major haute couture companies. His presentation will place the Italian production chain in a context that goes beyond the commitments publicly stated by the fashion houses. The discussion will focus on practices, responsibilities, and transparency.
For the luxury sector, this issue directly impacts the value of the product. Can the quality of a piece and a brand’s reputation be separated from the conditions under which their suppliers work? The forum includes this tension in its program, without limiting it to a debate about image. The integrity of the supply chain is among the transformations the industry intends to address.
The announced participation of Sandro Veronesi, president of the Oniverse Group, brings the perspective of a business leader to these discussions. This convergence of industry leaders and judicial authorities makes sense: sustainability is also judged by the day-to-day organization of production. It requires a close look at the relationships between clients and workshops—where brands’ rhetoric meets the reality of the workplace.
A transition that must be reflected in the bottom line
Luca Sburlati, president of Confindustria Moda, highlights the shift in the debate. During the press presentation, he noted that five years ago, discussions centered on ESG criteria. Today, the economic and social dimensions of sustainability also demand full attention. This shift in focus does not make environmental issues secondary; rather, it compels us to examine the industrial means of addressing them.
The requests made to the Italian government are specific. Sburlati is calling for a tax credit for energy-intensive companies. He is also urging action on the tax wedge—the gap between the employer’s labor cost and the employee’s take-home pay—to retain the best graduates in Italy. Behind the transition, therefore, lie energy costs and a battle for talent. Without solutions to these challenges, the technological ambition risks lacking support.
Veneto offers a concrete example of this challenge. Andrea Favaretto Rubelli, vice president of the fashion systems group at Confindustria Veneto Est, reports that there are 10,000 companies and SMEs active in the fashion industry there. He notes some slightly encouraging signs, with exports up 1.4% in the first half of the year. This is modest growth, and it would be unwise to interpret it as a sign of recovery. Above all, it underscores how the decisions being discussed in Venice affect a dense network of companies, extending far beyond the big names.
The Textile Industry Is Also Looking to Space
The other shift proposed by the forum is more unexpected: envisioning the future of the Italian textile industry beyond its traditional markets. Aerospace, defense, healthcare, and boating are among the sectors likely to embrace new applications. For an industry generally defined by clothing, this perspective shifts the focus. Fabric also becomes a solution to practical needs, and its value no longer depends solely on its appearance or texture.
Walter Villadei’s involvement is part of this new direction. A colonel in the Italian Air Force, he has recently participated in major space missions. The connection with textile manufacturers is not merely a programmatic intention: Last April, Confindustria Moda presented a white paper to the National Space Technology Cluster. Its goal was to demonstrate that the Italian technical textiles sector could meet the functional, environmental, and operational requirements of the space sector.
It is important to view this initiative in its proper context. The document outlines capabilities and possibilities; it does not constitute an announcement of secured contracts. However, it reflects a commitment to diversification that is already underway. Andrea Crespi, vice president of Confindustria Moda in charge of ESG issues, highlights the strategic role that technology can play in technical textiles, emphasizing their importance.
A project to create an aerospace cluster in Veneto, spanning multiple sectors, was also mentioned during the press conference. This regional expansion deserves attention: it suggests collaborations between industrial expertise rather than simply seeking new customers for the same products.
Bringing Industries Together Rather Than Merely Aligning Discourses
This spirit of cooperation is reflected in the event’s organization. Sponsored by Confindustria Moda and Confindustria Veneto Est, the forum now brings together representatives from the eyewear, footwear, and leather industries, as well as the Fondazione del Tessile Italiano. The scope is expanding to include related sectors facing changes in production and traceability requirements.
For its part, Teha Group has become the event’s scientific advisor. For Luca Sburlati, this evolution in the event’s structure mirrors that of the industries themselves. The chosen theme, “Shaping Tomorrow,” sets the direction for this new initiative: preparing for change rather than merely enduring it. Artificial intelligence will thus be addressed alongside circularity and supply chain transparency. The program’s value lies in how these elements are integrated: an innovation has a different impact depending on whether it remains isolated or transforms the practices of an entire industry.
Pathways to champion, rules to establish
On the environmental front, Matteo Rimini of Teha Group offers a point of perspective: since 2018, European fashion revenue has grown by 18%, while its emissions have decreased. He believes European targets are achievable, particularly thanks to new technologies. However, the cited data do not specify either the extent of the emissions reduction or the details of the targets in question. While they support an encouraging interpretation, they are not sufficient to settle the debate on the efforts still needed.
The next steps will also involve regulation. Sburlati expects the introduction of extended producer responsibility for textiles before the end of the year. At the same time, he emphasizes the need to prepare for the digital passport, another issue that companies must anticipate. Here, circularity moves beyond mere intentions and into the realm of concrete measures to be implemented.
Brussels is therefore a crucial arena for Confindustria Moda. Its president intends to influence European standards to defend the national industry, citing the action taken against Chinese ultra-fast fashion. For the companies gathered in Venice, the deadline is clear: prepare for the digital passport while helping to define the rules that will govern their products.