The elegance of a journey is sometimes measured by the futility of the objects one carries. On the tarmac at Palma Airport, just as Iberia’s short hop to Mahón is about to take off, a sight catches the eye. A man in his thirties, an ordinary-looking figure in a T-shirt and sneakers, is carrying what looks like the most sophisticated carry-on bag of the era. A black leather bag, supple as can be, bearing the seal of a luxury brand whose name is whispered rather than shouted. A quick online search confirms the hunch: the item is listed at 72,000 euros. Beside it, an armada of matching suitcases waits to be swallowed up by the cargo hold. Faced with this display of precious leather, a paradox emerges. Covetousness instantly gives way to a kind of compassion. One recalls the suitcases forgotten in a train compartment or those pieces of luggage returned on the baggage carousels, marked and scratched, as if they’d just emerged from a fierce bout in a boxing ring. Owning such a collection means burdening oneself with anxiety on wheels. In the end, it’s better to stick to the austerity of a ribbed metal shell, capable of bearing the scars of travel without any metaphysical drama.
Discretion as the only rule
After years spent exploring Mallorca, discovering Menorca finally seems like a natural next step. The neighboring island—more secretive, less ostentatious—offers a first impression of rare gentleness. The base is located in the west, in the history-steeped alleyways of Ciutadella. It is here, at the Faustino Gran, that a certain vision of contemporary hospitality unfolds. A French-owned property part of the Relais & Châteaux collection, the hotel exudes a natural ease, far removed from stiff rituals and forced smiles. The staff seems to break free from any pre-established script, favoring genuine human interaction.
The concierge service here evokes the golden age when people still unfolded paper maps to locate the most secluded coves. Dinner reservations are handled without any hassle, and the general manager takes the time to greet every guest, regardless of background or fame. This is the luxury of authenticity: being treated with respect simply because you’re there, and not for what you represent.
This atmosphere is also reflected in the makeup of the vacationers. Far from the usual clusters of British tourists whose banal conversations sometimes dominate breakfast, Menorca seems to have become the preferred refuge of a more understated international clientele. Italians, French, and Americans mingle there in respectful silence, creating a sort of intellectual safe zone where one truly feels elsewhere, sheltered from the echoes of one’s own culture of origin.
The Art of the Unexpected and of Stone
The Menorcan spirit is fully revealed in its unpredictability. During an evening on the north coast, near the fishing village of Fornells, friends from Madrid organize a dinner at a local chiringuito. Just as the first dishes arrive at the table, the power suddenly goes out throughout the entire area. Total darkness. In any other destination, the incident would have sparked panic or, at the very least, loud frustration. Here, nothing of the sort. Candles are brought out, the wine keeps flowing, and the children continue playing in the dim light.
Resourcefulness then takes on a design-savvy twist: the hosts slip away for a few minutes, returning with a tub of ice and a wireless table lamp by Santa & Cole. The conversation continues in the soft glow of this makeshift lighting, proving that the quality of a moment depends less on the infrastructure than on the state of mind of those sharing it. This nonchalance in the face of technical glitches is a sign of an island that refuses to let anyone dictate its pace.
This organic relationship with the elements can be found at Lithica, an abandoned stone quarry transformed into a giant labyrinth and a work of landscape art. Visiting this site in 36-degree heat requires a certain amount of self-sacrifice, but the experience of the mineral is total. You wander among the dizzying walls of marès—the island’s iconic limestone—until you feel literally “cooked to perfection” by the Mediterranean sun. It’s a visual shock, an immersion in inverted architecture where the void carved out by human hands becomes a space for contemplation.
Island Attractions and Market Cuisine
Further east, the port of Mahón is home to another treasure: Isla del Rey. This former naval hospital, steeped in centuries of maritime history, now houses the Menorcan branch of the Hauser & Wirth gallery. While the contemporary art on display catches the eye, paradoxically it is the garden designed by Piet Oudolf that leaves the most lasting impression. Its plant compositions, at once wild and controlled, seem to engage in a dialogue with the hospital’s ruins and the surrounding sea with rare poignancy. Dinner is served at La Cantina, the gallery’s restaurant, extending the visit with a sensory immersion in the landscape rather than mere contemplation of the artworks.
But Menorca is also about recommendations whispered among friends, concise lists exchanged like insider secrets. Among these hidden gems, one spot stands out in Ciutadella: Ulisses. Located right next to the municipal market, this restaurant offers a top-notch culinary experience. The fish, caught that very morning by the restaurant’s own boat, is transformed into sushi of exemplary finesse. Seated at a table for two, you watch as night gently falls, set to the rhythm of passersby and the freshness of the seafood. It is here, in this closeness to the raw ingredients and the beating heart of the city, that you grasp the soul of the island.
A Sign from the Universe
We returned to Mallorca just in time to witness the eclipse, an event that had been widely discussed. There were fears that the island would be locked down, overwhelmed by a massive influx of observers from around the world for this celestial spectacle. The reality was far more serene. Sitting on a rock, surrounded by calm onlookers, the moment of totality sparked a thunderous round of applause and shouts of joy. A moment of simple communion with the workings of the universe. Unless, once again, it was just another widespread power outage—but this time orchestrated on a cosmic scale. A perfect conclusion to a journey marked by self-imposed darkness and the lights we kindle ourselves.