Véronique Nichanian presented her latest collection for Hermès, marking the end of an era of understated mastery, as the fashion house prepares to welcome Wales Bonner, the first Black woman to take the helm in Europe.
Véronique Nichanian presented her very latest men’s collection for Hermès on January 24, 2026, during a fashion show held at the Palais Brongniart. According to Le Monde and the Associated Press, this event marks the end of an artistic directorship that lasted between thirty-seven and thirty-eight years—a rarity in today’s fashion world. The presentation drew a number of prominent figures from the worlds of fashion and entertainment, including Paul Smith, Usher, and Travis Scott, according to the AP and Business Today.
The collection reaffirmed a very specific approach to clothing: focused on precision, practicality, and a certain understated elegance. The looks featured a mix of silk turtlenecks, leather pants, and leather coats, interspersed with a few archival pieces, offering a nod to the brand’s history, as noted by Le Monde. Hypebeast and Business Today highlighted several standout pieces, such as a khaki crocodile suit, brown leather jumpsuits from the 1990s, and structured marine leather suits dating back to 2003. As for the touches of orange and yellow, they punctuated the color palette without overwhelming it—they were rather subtle, yet effective.
Craftsmanship, longevity, and putting things into perspective
Bringing vintage pieces back into the spotlight is also a way for Nichanian to highlight his belief in sustainability in fashion. According to Le Monde, the selection included several different leathers—lamb, calf, deer, and crocodile—and featured particularly meticulous finishes. Some experts describe these choices as embodying understated luxury, based more on technical excellence than on ostentatious display. This approach, they say, makes this collection a sort of lesson in the longevity of forms and materials.
To ensure a smooth transition, Hermès has chosen Grace Wales Bonner—a decision announced in October 2025 and reported by media outlets such as Vogue and Le Monde. The 35-year-old British designer, a graduate of Central Saint Martins, will thus take the helm of the house, becoming the first Black woman to lead a major fashion house in Europe. Her first collection for Hermès is expected in January 2027. This change is not only part of a legacy, but also reflects a desire for cultural reinterpretation, as several analyses have pointed out.
Contrasts and Expectations
Observers have praised Nichanian’s talent, while acknowledging that Wales Bonner faces a formidable challenge. According to Le Monde and Vogue, she possesses an intellectual sensibility and diaspora-inspired references that could broaden Hermès’s stylistic vocabulary while preserving its artisanal expertise. The big question that remains unanswered: how can she successfully blend the house’s intangible, almost elusive heritage with a more contemporary vision that is more open to the world?
Nichanian’s latest collection clearly served as a sort of professional testament, illustrating above all the consistency of a designer who defined Hermès’s menswear style for several decades. AP and Hypebeast saw this runway show as a true masterclass in casual chic; for its part, Business Today highlighted the precision in the details and the diversity of the cast. As it enters a new phase, Hermès seems intent on continuing to highlight its craftsmanship while remaining open to exploring new creative voices. The real test will come in January 2027, when Wales Bonner unveils her first collection under the brand’s name.