Within the walls of the Carrousel du Louvre, Issey Miyake presented a fall-winter collection of rare poetic beauty, exploring the role of creative expression in relation to raw materials. Under the artistic direction of Satoshi Kondo, the “Create, Allow” collection showcased an aesthetic of restraint, proving that the true power of clothing lies as much in its form as in the space it leaves empty.
A Reimagined “Ma” Aesthetic
A central theme for the house, the exploration of the space between fabric and the body dictated the look of each silhouette.
Here, Satoshi Kondo embraces the philosophy established by the founder in 1970, infusing it with a more meditative, almost intimate dimension. Far from visual clamour, the pieces seem designed to evoke silence, offering a moment to breathe rather than sensory overload.
The show opened with controlled volumes, presented in neutral tones. Controlled oversized silhouettes, elongated shoulders, and shirts with defined cuffs: the staging evoked a modern ceremony. Accompanied by a subtle soundscape, this presentation invited the audience to listen attentively to the movement of the fabrics, emphasizing slowness and contemplation.
When traditional craftsmanship meets innovation
The collection reaches its peak when the artisan’s touch interacts with technology.
Yellow pleats, shaped by hand before being mechanically set, brought an organic and vibrant energy. But the highlight remains the sculptural pieces—red bustiers and peplums—crafted from lacquered washi.
These rigid forms, dubbed “Urushi Body
,” are the result of a process of rare complexity: sheets of washi paper are torn by hand, molded using 3D printing technologies by artisans from Echizen, and then lacquered according to the Kyoto tradition. A vibrant tribute to the art of the obi, evoking the strength of contemporary feminine armor.
One of this season’s strengths lies in its celebration of imperfection and the in-between. Many silhouettes gave the illusion of being captured midway through their creation, leaving it up to the body to complete the work. This approach, which runs counter to the current obsession with clinical finishes, reintroduces a human and tangible dimension to luxury clothing.
A Serene Confidence
Kondo orchestrates a subtle tension between precise control and artistic letting go. The restrained color palette and measured proportions draw the eye to the garment’s very construction, transforming every touch of texture into a dramatic moment. By merging the concept of “ma” with exceptional local craftsmanship, the house reaffirms its identity with understated confidence: the confidence to strip away the superfluous and reveal only the essential.