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Add Texture to GoogleSunday, September 20, 2026, will go down as a pivotal date for the British creative scene. In the space of just a few hours, the London Fashion Week schedule saw two major trajectories converge: that of Christopher Kane, the darling of London fashion making a strategic return to Mulberry, and that of Seán McGirr, tasked with bringing Alexander McQueen’s legacy back to its homeland. This dual presence created a palpable tension, transforming this day of Spring/Summer 2027 presentations into a moment of truth for British luxury.
Mulberry and Christopher Kane’s Pragmatism
At 3:00 p.m. at the Queen Elizabeth II Centre in Westminster, the atmosphere was both solemn and electric. For Christopher Kane, this show marked a kind of professional rebirth. After being forced to place his eponymous brand into receivership in 2023, the Scottish designer has returned to the runways under the Mulberry umbrella. His appointment, which took place on March 26, 2026, at the initiative of CEO Andrea Baldo, is part of a clear effort to revitalize the British institution through the “Back to the Mulberry Spirit” strategy.
Stylistically, Kane rose to the challenge of blending his own identity with the brand’s historic codes. The collection centered on leather—the brand’s signature material—crafted with architectural precision. It featured clean lines punctuated by geometric cutouts that subtly evoke the flap of the Bayswater bag, a cornerstone of the brand’s heritage. The most striking detail was undoubtedly the hatchet-shaped heels, a direct nod to the advertising campaigns depicting the symbolic pruning of a mulberry tree. Oversized buckles, reinterpreting the Postman’s Lock clasp, and iridescent mini-dresses rounded out a collection that already seems to be paying off: Mulberry reported a 23% increase in sales during the first quarter of fiscal year 2026.
McQueen: A Return to Roots and Critical Reflection
As night fell, the focus shifted to Lincoln’s Inn Fields. It was in The Undercroft, the chapel’s vaulted crypt, that Seán McGirr orchestrated the grand return of the Alexander McQueen house to London. Since his appointment in late 2023 as Sarah Burton’s successor, the Irish designer had until then presented his collections in Paris. This return to the British capital—where Lee Alexander McQueen founded his house in 1992—is a highly symbolic decision. For McGirr, the challenge was to reconnect with the subversive energy and nightlife culture that form the very DNA of the brand.
It is here that what some observers now call “the McQueen question” comes into sharp focus. The challenge is a daunting one: how to embrace such a visceral and dramatic legacy without limiting oneself to a mere interpretation of the archives or a superficial pastiche? The collection presented in the crypt sought to answer this question through sharp tailoring. Pointed epaulets and peplum jackets were paired with striped patterns delicately embroidered with flowers, while fetishistic elements—harnesses, belts, and necklaces reminiscent of dog collars—anchored the collection in a radical clubbing aesthetic. The horn-shaped hairstyles and the edgy soundtrack, produced by A. G. Cook, reinforced this atmosphere of creative tension.
A Changing Fashion Landscape
This return to London for McQueen marks the first event of this scale on the official calendar since 2001, although a one-off show took place in October 2022. By choosing to abandon the Parisian runways for London’s crypts, McGirr demonstrates a desire to engage directly with the spirit of the city. For Mulberry, the absence from the runways was also notable, with sources differing on the exact duration of this hiatus—ranging from six to ten years depending on whether one counts accessory presentations or formal runway shows.
The reception of these two visions will be decisive for the future of both fashion houses. On the one hand, Kane’s creative pragmatism already appears validated by solid financial performance; on the other, McGirr faces intense critical pressure, with every detail of his vision scrutinized against the yardstick of Lee McQueen’s genius. The contrast between the luxurious minimalism of Westminster and the architectural fetishism of Lincoln’s Inn outlines the contours of a British fashion scene that is seeking, between heritage and subversion, a new lease on life.
Pieces from the Mulberry by Christopher Kane collection will be available in stores and on the official website starting in January 2027. As for the Alexander McQueen collection, it is scheduled to go on sale in spring 2027. At this stage, the prices of the pieces presented at the fashion shows have not yet been disclosed by the two institutions.